Thursday, January 22, 2015

Day 16

I can't  believe  our time us over.  It seemed so long  and now, early tomorrow  morning  we head west, back home to the United States.

This  morning  we headed to the Pater  Noster  church on the Mount of Olives.  There are 176 languages displayed  on  ceramic tiles all over this church, both inside and out.  It was pretty  impressive to see so many ways of praying  the Our Father.  It is built on the  site where tradition says Jesus  taught  his followers  how to pray.

Then off to meet the folks of Sabeel, which is a word meaning "the way" and "source."  We had the privilege  of  hearing  from  Naim  Ateek, who with the  help of the Holy Spirit and the Palestinian  Episcopalians of his parish, they formulated a liberation theology of Palestine.  How powerful  to understand  that Jesus was born, raised, and died under (and by) the hand of the occupiers....Rome.  This is the beginning of a new and empowering theology that seeks to make sense of what is happening in their  own  lives.

From Sabeel we went to the City of  David.  It started off with a 3D  movie that would not be something  I would see again.  But to walk around the city mount and to descend to King Hezekiah's  tunnel was pretty  cool.  It was  very strange  though at the end.  Some of the folks went through  the  wet tunnel and others of us went dry.  When we got through on dry ground the Israeli Park Service attendant wouldn't  let us go out through the easiest route!  He  was  afraid for our safety!  As Khaleil  explained later, what he didn't want was for us to talk to  the  locals, who are Arabs, and who would tell us about the 40 houses that have  been demolished in their community of Savile  this past year because...?

We were back at the hotel by 2, and Beth, Ron and I went to the Garden Tomb literally behind the hotel.  I bought a cool teaching book, and  stopped myself from  buying another Nativity set!

Tonight we retrieved off to  a  local Palestinian  restaurant with Dahlia Habash, the tour company  owner.  Then early tomorrow  it's  back to the airport for our trip home.  I hope to return  soon, very soon!

Wednesday, January 21, 2015

Day 15
Today, after breakfast, our driver Fausi (sp) picked us up and we  headed  north out of the city  and we retrieved Khaleil  close to his  home.  Continuing  north we went to Mt. Gerazim, the traditional  site  of  the sacrifice  of  Isaac by Abraham.  The town situated there  is  the  home  of  the  Samaritans - one of  two  places  where  they  live.  They are fewer than 800 people now.  They keep traditional Jewish law, only use the first  5 books of the Old Testament  their text,  and  their  women rule the household.  During  their  monthly  cycle, they are  isolated  from  the  community  and  their  families must care  for  them.  Reminded me of the  Red Tent book.

Here they still do sacrifice on  the  day of Atonement and people  from  all  over  come to participate and watch  the  event.  During  the  festival of booths, the tent is adorned  with  all kinds of fruits  and  vegetables.  They claim to  have  the  oldest  copy  of  Torah in existence, which is carefully  hidden  as someone broke in and stole the 800 and 700 year old copies!

From there we went to Nablus (whose ancient name is Shechem) and began our visit at the site of Jacob's  well.  It is a beautiful Greek Orthodox church whose iconography, glass work, mosaics, frescoes, and furniture  are the handiwork of their priest, Justinian.  The icons in this church  ate some of the most beautiful  I've  ever  seen!  I hope the photos  I  took  come  out!

We then went to the market  in Nablus, the largest  in Palestine.  Nablus  is the second  largest  city after Jaffa.  We experienced  an olive  oil  soap factory, the second oldest in Nablus, but the oldest  functioning!  Olive oil soap smells simply wonderful!!!  Clean.  The whole  process  is  done  by hand.  We watched  the  man who wraps the  soap for a bit.  He can wrap a bar in 4 seconds!  Totally amazing  place.


In the market, we shared a  traditional snack called Kinaffa Nabutzia, which starts off as ground corn(?) topped with goat cheese.  It is baked, turned upside down and then topped with just a little  honey water.  Oh my!  Lunch was traditional Palestinian...assorted salads, chicken and this most amazing  bread!  Baked in a pizza - type pan topped with sour herbs and almonds, it truly  was  one of the best meal I've  had!

It  was  a  good  thing  that  after lunch we went to the Sabastia  National  Park  and walked around.  This is the site  of  Samaria of King Omri fame.  Greek before  that, this  site  is  way under developed.  It would be huge!  It's  estimated  that 90,000  people  lived there!

On our way home, we dropped  off  Khaleil.  This was the  mostly  beautiful  day weather wise that we had.

Almost everyone  is  sick - coughing, blowing, and Beth's cold went to her eye.  But by the afternoon  it was almost back to normal.  So far I'm OK health wise.
Day 14
I am writing  this  a day late, I was exhausted  from all that we did yesterday!
We began our day at the Western side of the Temple Mount and walked through the tunnel that oncertain was  the  entrance  gate.  We saw  a  series  of renditions of this site from Herod the Great's  day to present  day.  The stones used to build it
his site were massive!  Some of tge largest  in the  world.  We walked through  the  tunnel along the  Western wall and came to a cistern used by families whose  houses were  destroyed  to secure the site.
We exited the tunnel  at the site of Station 2 on the Via Dolorosa.  We then we're treated to two very wonderful  serendipitous  events....we went into a bakery and got to see Jerusalem  bagels being  baked and then got to eat these wonders  of  dough hot from the oven with zatar and salt...yum!
Next, we were invited  to  Khaleil's family home for coffee.  It was a wonderful experience!!

From here we went to the Wailing  Wall, where Jesus from all over the world  come to  pray.  Very powerful experience.

The Jerusalem  Archaeological  Park was next on the agenda  for  the  day.  We walked to  the  east side of the temple, saw some of  the stone foundation  of  Herod  the  Great, some steps that would  have  been  around  in Jesus' day, saw the three palaces and the  royal enrtrance to the Al-Asa Mosque on  the  temple  mount.  Khaleil  also showed  us spots where he helped to excavate.

Off to Bethlehem.  The separation wall is HUGE!  And this is  the  first  time  we saw this type  of  wall.  We  had seen  secru it fences, but not the wall.  Getting  into and out  of Bethlehem is no  laughing  matter...this is serious  business.
We walked  through  the  market and headed  to  Christmas  Lutheran  Church  to meet with Pastor  Mitri Raheb, who  had  both a Power  point  and a video presentattoo on the situation  in  Bethlehem  from a pastor's point  of  view.
We saw lots of  things ,  including  Stars & Bucks!

Manger Square...something  I've  always  wanted  to  see, and now I wa,ked across  it!!!

Church  of the   Nativity is the spot where the churche batyle it out to see who will win!  All the while, the true messayed of Jesus goes on.  St Catherine's  Churchave is a place where awe meets beaury.  The spot  where  Jesus  was born.




Monday, January 19, 2015

Day 13
we started  off early this morning, 7:45,and headed out to Herodium, yet another  archetectural  marvel of Herod the Great.  This time he builthis  "Summer  Palace" on a hill that he had built up to look like  the  cone of a volcano! He loved  this  place so much that he was buried there!  It's an amazing feat of engineering.  We went up to the top and  down into the cisterns.  It was mind boggling to realize  that  this  was  built in 35BCE!

We then went to Ephrat and met with Bob Lange, a Jewish settler who grew up  in upstate New York and obtained degrees in agriculture from the University  of  Wisconsin, Madison, and other degrees since then.  He shared with us his understanding of life in Israel.  I obtained  maps from him to help me see his side of things.

From there we went  to  Hebron and went to a glass factory that has been doing the mouth blowing of glass and ceramics since 1910.  We watched a cruet being made.  Then we went into the  ceramic  shop where artisans were painting ceramics  before  firing.  The glass factory shop was full of temptation!

From there  we went to a Holy site the cave of Machpelah, the site that Abraham bought  to bury his wife, Sarah.  Then, Isaac  and Rebecca, Jacob and  Leah were buried  as well.  It is now both a mosque  and a synagogue and shared uneasily by both.

Hebron is, to me, the conflict here in a  nutshell.  Two groups who each claim ownership of the land and the history...and both are correct.  How do you resolve  such a  conflict?  Bob Lange and Bishop Younan bothe sayou the same  thing!  Dialogue not armies...compromise  not conflict.  Peaceful  coexistence...so...why isn't  it  happening?

Off to Bethlehem  and to the Shepherd's Fields.  This is a beautiful  spot in Bethlehem  where it  is assumed  that those shepherds so many years ago heard the birth announcement  of  Jesus and quite  possibly  be the place where Maryou and Joseph stayed, too during the birth!  Beautiful  chapel built by Bartilucci in the shape of a Bedouin tent.

Beit Sahour is right next door, so some did further shopping.  I shopped but did not buy!

Hotel again ànd a super early  start tomorrow.  We are walking  out at 7am!

Sunday, January 18, 2015

Day 11
The Walk
This morning  we walked into the Old City  of Jerusalem  through the lion's  gate also known as St. Stephen's  Gate, the place where Stephen  was martyred.  On the way Kaliel  showed us the spot where the Crusaders  breached the city wall so long ago.  We then headed to St. Ann's Church, the site where Mary was born.  This church has amazing acoustics!  We sang  2 verses of Beautiful Savior making one of our group sad as this was both her wedding  hyen and one hymn sung at her husband's funeral.  This church is the only one not built on the site of a previous church  or pagan site in all of Jerusalem.  Why?  The other St. Ann's church was next door and the floor was under water so the Crusaders wisely  built  off site a bit.

We continued our walk to the church of the Flagellation, the place that Jesus was first whipped by Pilate's  guards after Pontius Pilate condemned  Jesus  to death.

Via Dolorosa
We walked today where Jesus  may have walked  as he went from Pilate to Golgotha.  Jears was condemned  byou Pilate at Station 1.  It is a school today.

Station 2.  In this  chapel Jesus takes up the cross and begins his death  march.  Most of  us  understand  that Jesus carried the whole cross, buto that would have been impossible!  He carried the cross-beam on his shoulders and then he was presented  to  the  people  with the words,  "Behold  the man."

At the 3rd  station, Jesus falls for the first time. Beautifulart in this station.

Station 4.  The small Armenian Catholic  church  is here and there is a relief  above  the door commemorating  the time Jesus met his mother.

At the 5th  station, Simon of  Sirene is chosen to help Jesus carry his cross.  Here, outside the door, there is a stone  where Jesus  placed his hand for support.

6th station.  Here, St. Veronica  wipes Jesus' face, and the impression is supposedly  someplace,

At the 7th station Jesus  falls for a second time.

Station  8.  Jesus, as he passes women crying  for  him, tells them not to  be  weeping  for him, but for them and their children.

At Station 9 Jesus falls for a third time.  There is a column builTinton the door of a Copic church  to commemorate  this spot.

Just outside of  the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulcher, is the spot where Jesus is strpiped of his garments and thesoldiers cast lots for  them.

We took a break here and went to Redeemer  Lutheran  to meet with Bishop Yunan.  He spoke for nearly 45 minutes about the Palestinian situation  and possible solution.  Such an amazing  man!  I'm so glad this happened!

Lunch  was in the market at a place  that served traditional  Middle East fare.  I ate a patty that was ground beef and lamb mixed with spices and wrapped in grape  leaves and baked.  Yummy!

Back  to the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulcher for the  remaining  stations...

Station  11, Jesus is nailed to the cross. Not dun, and I don't think  I  have  to  say more,

At sration 12, Jesus  is  crucified and dies.  This is Golgotha, the place of the skull.  Not only  did  the  stone  look a lot  like a skull, but skulls were buried unDer Jeses' cross.

Station 13.  Jesus  is  taken  from  the  cross  and  laid in Mary's lap.  Can this really be, did this just happen?

At this station, Jesus is by used in a Tomb.

There are 6 ancient churches in charge at the Church  of  the  gongoing on here: Roman Catholic, a Greek Orthodox, Armenian, Coptic,Etheopian, and Syrian  who are responsible  for  the maintenance  and upkeep.

Then off to do some shopping!






Day 12, 2nd Sunday  in the Holy Land

This morning we woke up early, had breakfast   (I'm  sure  you  are  missing  the play by play on food, but it's just  ok-nothing  to  write  home about   [pun intended]), and met Khaleil  for another walk through the Old City of Jerusalem, and then through 2 security  Check points to  get to the Temple  Mount.  On this strategic acreage lies the heart of the three major religions  of Israel.  Alet Asa Mosque, the Dome on the Rock, and the Wailing  Wall are here.  For the last decade no one has been allowed  to  enter the Dome of the Rock except  Muslims  for prayers.  We were able to come close  to  the  doors and see that there  was  renovation going on inside.  Khaleil  was very  passionate  about  this place and rightly so!

Off to church  at Lutheran  Church  of the Redeemer   where Bishop Munib Younan  presided, and Bishop Elizabeth  Eaton pteached.  It was an amazing  experience sitting there  and worshipping.  After church I connected with  Professor Barbara  Rossignol from my LSTC  days, and with Pastor  Raphael  Malpica-Padilla from church wide staff.  I also met Dennis Frado who  I will be in touch with in CA soon.

From  church  we went to Hadassah  Hospital to the synagogue  on site that has 12 beautiful Marc Chagal stained glass  windows.  The explanation  of  each  wad beautiful  as well.  Each winow tells  the story of the 12 sons of Jacob.  Worth a  visit!

From there  we went to the  Israeli  National  Museum, ate lunch   (a vacant sandwich) and toured the model of Jerusalem  in 66CE.  It's  huge!!!!  And then we visited  the  separate  building for the Dead Sea Scrolls. It's  a beautiful  place to walk through!  Beth and I stayed  extra time at the museum  to take in more  of its collection.

We came back, ate dinner, had our meeting  and now I've written  my blog  so...good  night!

Friday, January 16, 2015

Day 10
After  a  terrible  night's  sleep, I  was up early and  wrote the previous  day's  blog.  I'm  glad  I  did  because  after a day like  today  I'd  be  hard  pressed  to  remember  much.  Even with waking  up  early, I had a terrible  time  keeping  myself  together and almost  missed  breakfast.  Two hard cooked eggs later, I was ready to go.

We started off our morning at the Israeli Holocaust  Museum, Yad  Vashem.  It was  overwhelming  from the first video right to the last room.  I kept thinking  that one of my Swartz ancestors  could  have  participated.  It's   creamy and freaky,.

From there we went to Dimes Flavout, a church on the Mount of Olives.  This is a pretty church, built  by Bartilucci, is shaped in the former of a tear drop.in it's earlier days rain would be collected from the room in clay jars.

We exited, had  a  vendor  selling scarves, prayer shawls, and hats.  Down   the street  we went  to take a look at the view, admire some Graves and the panoramic  view and then off to the Garden  of  Gethsemane.  There are 8 trees in this tiny garden that were  alive when  Jesus  was.  Who knows? Jesus my very well have prayed there!

The Church  of  the  Nations, built during the 1920's was supported  by  20 countries and majorly supported by 12 is next to the Garden of Gethsemane.  Thought to be one of Bartilucci's  best architectural  feats, the church is gorgeous!  Purple  alabaster  windows and a star - filled  ceiling  make 7th feel like the night of Jesus' betrayal, even on sunny days.  3 apses  portray the  scenes and the stone where Jesus knelt to pray is under the central altar.  A Holy place to be sure.  All Christian  religions agree that this is the spot!

Lunch today was Upside  Down at  a local Palestinian restaurant.  Upside  Down is what a lot of people eat and it is chicken leg  quarters and the  most amazing rice!  Our tables were filled with  all kinds of salads, and we finished  with a tangerine.  Yum, yum.

We then went to LA headquarters  and Augusta  Victoria  Hospital  and met with David Miller, the director.  It was a very  quick  visit to this site, bur now I have  a real  experience to go with my passion  for Healthcare  for the least of these.  This hospital  treats Palestinians and is specializing in cancer, renal, ENT, and preventative  medicine  with all female mobile mammography  vans.

We then went to the Church of the Ascension which is a Church within a church.  Open air to remember  Jesus going into heaven, and the fooreprint of Jesus is now inside a tiny chapel.  Interesting  spot - loved the open air idea  of  a  church  except when it rains!  Like it's  been  doing  today and tomorrow's predicted  to  be  the  same.  Yippie, the Via Dolorosa  in the rain...

Back to the Mount of Olives to Saint  Peter Gallocantu  church the place  of Peter's denial of Jesus, the High Priest's house and the site where people remember  Jesus' trial, torture, and scourging  before he walks to Calvary.
This was the place that 20 experienced the  biggest crowds to date.  People of all nationalities  were here to remember  and to experience  the final hours of Jesus' life.  The hole in the ground where they retained Jesus was a powerful reminder that his trial took hours and there were times when he would have suffered alone.  Kaliel explained that after his beating they would have poured sour vinegar on him to intensify  the pain he easy experiencing and his connection  to  what is done  to the  Passover  lamb was powerful and poignant.  Jesus  become  the  Passover  lamb for the world.

From  there  we  went  to  the  place of the Last Supper and David's Tomb.  Since Jerusalem has been built  and destroy ed 47 times, almost nothing is from the time of Jesus, including  this site which is now operated by the Israeli Department  of  Religion.  It has been a chapel, a mosque, and now is a large room with traces of a long history!  A column is here that  depicts a mother  pelican feeding her children  from her breast which is a symbol of Jesus dying  to save the  world.  And the writing is Arabic as is a window showing the Mosque time as well.  Right underneath is the space where people remember the death and burial of King David.  It was closed for the Sabbath, abut I found it fascinating  to see a lace where the three major  religions  of the area were all at the same spot.