Day 15
Today, after breakfast, our driver Fausi (sp) picked us up and we headed north out of the city and we retrieved Khaleil close to his home. Continuing north we went to Mt. Gerazim, the traditional site of the sacrifice of Isaac by Abraham. The town situated there is the home of the Samaritans - one of two places where they live. They are fewer than 800 people now. They keep traditional Jewish law, only use the first 5 books of the Old Testament their text, and their women rule the household. During their monthly cycle, they are isolated from the community and their families must care for them. Reminded me of the Red Tent book.
Here they still do sacrifice on the day of Atonement and people from all over come to participate and watch the event. During the festival of booths, the tent is adorned with all kinds of fruits and vegetables. They claim to have the oldest copy of Torah in existence, which is carefully hidden as someone broke in and stole the 800 and 700 year old copies!
From there we went to Nablus (whose ancient name is Shechem) and began our visit at the site of Jacob's well. It is a beautiful Greek Orthodox church whose iconography, glass work, mosaics, frescoes, and furniture are the handiwork of their priest, Justinian. The icons in this church ate some of the most beautiful I've ever seen! I hope the photos I took come out!
We then went to the market in Nablus, the largest in Palestine. Nablus is the second largest city after Jaffa. We experienced an olive oil soap factory, the second oldest in Nablus, but the oldest functioning! Olive oil soap smells simply wonderful!!! Clean. The whole process is done by hand. We watched the man who wraps the soap for a bit. He can wrap a bar in 4 seconds! Totally amazing place.
In the market, we shared a traditional snack called Kinaffa Nabutzia, which starts off as ground corn(?) topped with goat cheese. It is baked, turned upside down and then topped with just a little honey water. Oh my! Lunch was traditional Palestinian...assorted salads, chicken and this most amazing bread! Baked in a pizza - type pan topped with sour herbs and almonds, it truly was one of the best meal I've had!
It was a good thing that after lunch we went to the Sabastia National Park and walked around. This is the site of Samaria of King Omri fame. Greek before that, this site is way under developed. It would be huge! It's estimated that 90,000 people lived there!
On our way home, we dropped off Khaleil. This was the mostly beautiful day weather wise that we had.
Almost everyone is sick - coughing, blowing, and Beth's cold went to her eye. But by the afternoon it was almost back to normal. So far I'm OK health wise.
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